Portinatx: Your Gateway to the Unknown
Portinatx is one of those corners in northern Ibiza that still preserves the charm of a small coastal village, far from the hustle and bustle of more touristy areas. It's the perfect starting point for one of the island's most beautiful coastal routes: the path leading to the hidden Cala d'en Serra.
My grandmother, who was born on a farm nearby, used to tell me that as a child she would walk to that cove with her sisters to fish and swim in summer, and it was like having a private pool in the middle of nature. Today it remains much the same.
The Beginning of the Path
The route starts from the area of the Portinatx lighthouse, which you can reach by following signs from the village center. There's a small parking area next to the lighthouse where you can leave your car.
From here, a well-marked path heads eastward along the coast. The first stretch is easy and runs through gentle terrain between pine trees and low scrub. To your right, the sea stretches to the horizon with that intense blue that only the Mediterranean has in this part of the island, where the waters are especially clean and transparent.
The Coastal Trail
Unique Wildlife of the Balearic Islands
The path is about four kilometers long and takes approximately an hour and a half to complete, though it's worth going slowly and enjoying every corner. As you progress, you'll discover small rocky coves hidden between the cliffs, where crystal-clear water invites you to take a dip.
In spring it's common to see osprey eagles soaring above the cliffs, and if you look carefully at the ground you'll find Ibizan lizards with brilliant green and blue colors, an endemic species that exists nowhere else in the world.
The Enchanted Forest
The middle section of the route passes through a dense forest area where pine trees grow bent by the effect of the tramontana wind. This forest has something mysterious about it, with light filtering through the branches and creating shadows on the ground covered with pine needles.
If you come in autumn after the rains, you're very likely to find mushrooms, especially the prized esclata-sang (bleeding tooth fungus) that we Ibizencos search for with passion.
Local Secret: the best time to do this route is early in the morning, when the low-angle light illuminates the cliffs with golden tones and wildlife is in full activity. Plus, you'll have the trail practically to yourself.
Arriving at Cala d'en Serra
Suddenly, after a bend in the path, the forest opens up and Cala d'en Serra appears below, like a turquoise jewel set between dark rocky cliffs. The descent to the beach is a bit steep but perfectly doable.
The cove is small, about fifty meters long, with a mix of sand and pebbles. The water is remarkably clear and you can see the bottom at four to five meters depth. There's a beach bar that opens in season serving fresh fish and paella.
The Ghost Hotel
One of the most curious features of Cala d'en Serra is the skeleton of a hotel that was started in the seventies and never finished. The abandoned concrete structure has become a strange monument to the consequences of uncontrolled development, but also a very photogenic spot that attracts photographers and artists from around the world.
What to Bring
- Water and snacks
- Sunscreen and hat
- Swimsuit and towel (swimming in Cala d'en Serra is a must)
- Closed-toe footwear with good grip
- Snorkeling glasses (the seabed is spectacular)
Practical Information
- Distance: 8 km (round trip)
- Difficulty: Low-Medium, suitable for families with children from age 6
- Duration: 3 hours (round trip, not including swimming)
- Best Season: April to October (beach bar open, warm water)
- Return Alternative: Narrow road down to the cove (parking is difficult in summer)