Es Amunts: Ibiza's Untamed North
When people think of Ibiza, they rarely imagine hundred-meter cliffs dropping vertically into a raging sea, pine forests so dense that light barely filters through, and white-washed villages where time seems to have stopped.
But that's exactly what you'll find in Es Amunts, the northern strip of the island stretching from Sant Mateu to Sant Joan, and what for locals represents the true heart of our land.
A Protected and Unique Landscape
Es Amunts is designated as a Special Interest Natural Area, and for good reason. Here the coast is rugged and inaccessible, traditional terraced agriculture is maintained as it has been for centuries, and the population density is minimal.
You'll find hundred-year-old payesas (traditional Ibizan houses) scattered among almond, olive and carob fields, with their wells and dry stone walls that speak of generations of Ibizans working the land with patience and wisdom. It's a landscape that connects you with the deep history of the island.
Recommended Route: From Na Xamena to Benirrás
The Starting Point
One of the most spectacular routes in Es Amunts connects the Na Xamena viewpoint with Benirrás beach, covering approximately ten kilometres of coast and mountain. The starting point is the parking area at the Na Xamena hotel, where there's a viewpoint overlooking Ibiza's highest cliffs.
From here, a path winds along the cliff edge, offering dizzying panoramas over a sea that, depending on the day, can be as blue and calm as a swimming pool or as grey and turbulent as an Atlantic ocean.
The Ravine Descent
The path then descends through a wooded ravine where holm oaks, mastic shrubs and aromatic plants grow. If you come in spring, the ground will be covered with wild orchids, anemones and other flowers that turn the walk into a festival of colours.
In autumn, after the first rains, the forest exhales that smell of wet earth and mushrooms that signals to locals the beginning of the season for esclatasangs (wild mushrooms), the Ibizan variety that is one of our gastronomic treasures.
Local tip: If you come in November after rainfall, pay attention to the forest floor. Esclatasangs grow under the pines and are easy to identify by their orange cap with green spots. But never pick mushrooms unless you're certain of what they are.
Points of Interest Along the Route
Halfway through, you'll find the remains of old lime kilns, circular stone structures where our ancestors heated limestone to obtain the white lime used to whitewash houses. These kilns, called forns de calç in Ibizan, are a fundamental part of our rural heritage.
As you approach Benirrás, the landscape softens and the valley leading down to the beach appears. The final kilometres run between cultivated fields and traditional payesas. Arriving at Benirrás is a wonderful reward: a pebble beach framed by wooded hills, with the Cap Bernat islet emerging from the water like a finger of stone pointing to the sky.
What to Bring
- Sufficient water (minimum 2 litres per person)
- Food and energy snacks
- Sun protection and hat
- Mountain boots with ankle support
- Map or GPS with the track downloaded
- Light layers for warmth (wind on the cliffs can be cold)
Practical Information
- Distance: 10 km (linear)
- Elevation gain: 450 m positive, 500 m negative
- Difficulty: Medium-High
- Duration: 4-5 hours not including breaks
- Best season: October to May
- Signage: Partial, GPS essential